The popular western Massachusetts climbing destination Farley Ledges remains closed, and hopes for a quick resolution are quickly fading.
The Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition (WMCC) posted an update on the situation yesterday morning, saying all climbing access to Farley Ledge in Erving, Massachusetts is still closed and they are working to find a solution.
The popular climbing area was abruptly closed on April 3 when a private landowner revoked access. Because it is not possible to access any of the climbing from the WMCC parking lot without crossing the private landowner’s property, WMCC officials temporarily closed the lot.
Farley is the most popular crag in southern New England. It is renowned for its striking gneiss formations that include roughly 400 pitches of roped climbing and an equal number of boulder problems. As the closest major climbing area to Boston, the area sees an estimated 10,000 visitors annually.
In their update, WMCC officials said the closure wasn’t due to climber conduct, but they said unauthorized use could jeopardize future access.
“We know how important Farley is to the climbing community,” said Andy Neuman, President of the WMCC. “We appreciate the community’s cooperation and patience as we work through a complex and evolving situation.”
WMCC officials said they are actively working with partners, including the climbing advocacy group Access Fund, to find a long-term solution.
The update stated there is currently no timeline for reopening.
Officials said they are working to clarify land boundaries and permissions. They said they are also working to speed up the development of a new parking area on WMCC-owned land. In December, WMCC and Access Fund purchased a 70-acre property at Farley Ledges.
WMCC is currently working to raise funds for the new parking lot. You can learn more here.
WMCC officials said climbers can still access several other climbs in the area, all within a 15-minute drive of Farley. They include Rose Ledge, Catamount, The Sanctuary, and Mormon Hollow.
