Climbers in western Massachusetts have purchased a 70-acre property that will improve access to one of the state’s best climbing destinations.
The climbing advocacy groups Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition (WMCC) and Access Fund announced today that they have purchased a 70-acre property at Farley Ledges in Erving, Massachusetts. Officials with the groups said they plan to build a new trailhead and parking lot on the property.
“This project marks a major milestone in a 20-year-long effort to expand access to Massachusetts’ premier rock climbing,” says founding WMCC member, Jon LaValley. “There’s no shame in the long game.”
Farley is renowned for its striking gneiss formations that include roughly 400 pitches of roped climbing and an equal number of boulder problems.
As the closest major climbing area to Boston, the area sees an estimated 10,000 visitors annually.
The purchase was funded through Access Fund’s Climbing Conservation Loan Program with additional support from the Community Foundation of North Central Massachusetts and Central Rock Gym.
The acquisition represents the second phase of WMCC’s multiyear “Farley Conservation Initiative,” designed to enhance public access and safeguard climbing at Farley Ledges. Historically, climbing access has been challenging due to a complex patchwork of public and private land ownership.
The purchase moves WMCC closer to its vision of securing long-term public access to the Ledges with sufficient parking, ATV access for emergency crews, and permanent protection of the cliff.
Public access to the newly purchased parcel will remain limited while WMCC develops the necessary infrastructure to allow for public access. However, WMCC will host periodic volunteer days so the community can get involved in the trail work needed to open the property.
